Existing Concrete (Unpainted and Unsealed), 1/2" (and thicker) Exterior grade Plywood, ICF (insulated concrete forms), Densglass, insulated foam (see below)
Dura Rock-Cement Board, Drywall, OSB, and all of the above.
As long as surface is Unpainted & Unsealed
Must be clean, no lath needed
You can use a bonding agent in the mortar mix or paint on Liquid Bonding Agent
Check with local building code, stone should not be applied closer than 4” from grade.
Interior Only – we still suggest using metal lath & tarpaper. The metal lath will prevent the weight of the stone from pulling the nails through the cement board, and the tarpaper will act as a bond breaker.
Must use vapor barrier & metal lath with this application
Vapor barrier acts as a bond-breaker, allowing movement in the wall to happen without cracking the stones.
Mortar will crack along seams if you don’t overlap the horizontal seams at least 2 inches and vertical seams 4 inches.
OSB is NOT recommended for exterior applications – moisture can be trapped in and it can shrink and swell, it is not as stable as exterior grade plywood. OSB is fine for interior applications.
Our product can be installed over ICF's very easily. The installation process is similar to that for standard applications; you will still need to apply a vapor barrier and the metal lath.
We recommend using stainless or galvanized self tapping screws with fender washers to attach the metal lath to the plastic strips molded into the forms.
You will have to be careful when applying the lath; you don't want to have many bumps or wrinkles, as there isn't much to attach to between the plastic strips.
Contact the manufacturer of your ICF’s to confirm that the product is designed to be used with an adhered masonry veneer.
We recommend using the same technique as with any other exterior application, including using metal lath & tarpaper. The fasteners must penetrate the studs a minimum of one inch.
Make sure the lath is installed without any bulges.
If the foam is less than one inch thick, apply the vapor barrier and lath in the normal manner, penetrating the studs with the fasteners at least one inch.
If the foam is more than one inch thick, cut strips out of the foam and fasten furring strips to the studs every sixteen inches –no plywood is needed just a vapor & lath.
Unless being applied to a bare masonry wall, yes a vapor barrier will need to be used.
No, Tyvek is a wind barrier not a vapor barrier.
Check local building codes to ensure you are applying the proper weight; we recommend two layers of 15# saturated felt.
Install from the bottom up horizontally - make sure upper layer overlaps lower layer at least 4 inches.
We recommend using Kraft D-Paper, it is already double rolled.
2.5 pound galvanized metal lath is recommended.
Tyvek must use lath
Durarock must use lath
Painted Surface must use lath
Dry Wall must use lath – interior only
OSB (exterior) must use ½” exterior grade plywood, tar paper, & lath
The lath should be applied horizontally; Surface should be rough as you rub your hand upward. This will make the lath angle down against the wall forming little cups that will help in catching the mortar for the scratch coat.
There should be NO bubbles or bounce in the lath –
(If there are any, and you have started putting up stone, they can be fixed withscrews and fender washers).
Coated roofing nails or screws will suffice, 1 ¾” nails for the studs (penetrate stud 1 inch & plywood ¾”) every 6” vertically, ½” to ¾”penetration in between studs (Don’t perforate the wall cavity).
Overlap the lath 4” at all seams - wrap all corners 16” or attach to stud. When corners are wrapped it is important to nail into the corner stud from both sides. This is where the most stress will develop. If you don’t wrap the corners with lath, you will have cracks next spring!
To attach to a block wall a Ram Set Gun can be used, shooting into the web (solid part); toggle bolts can be used in hollow-core panels.
Mix only enough mortar to use within 1 hour.
You want a pancake batter consistency. Add only enough water so that the trowel leaves a track. Don’t mix all of a bag at once, this way you can modify your mix by adding more material if it is too wet.
Put some mortar on your trowel and bounce the trowel, turn the trowel over and the mortar should stick. If it falls off in a big clump, the mix is too dry, if it runs off the mix is too wet.
Not recommended for exterior use, ¼” grout joint is the smallest recommended.
If you drystack order an additional 15-20% on your stone order (Interior only).
Type N - best in flex, strength and adhesion.
Check with local building codes to make sure you are in compliance.
One 60# bag will cover roughly 5 sq. ft. including scratch, butter, and grout.
Yes, adhesion can be improved by adding a liquid bonding agent to the mortar mix follow Manufacturers Recommendations.
All lath should be covered with a 1/2" to 3/4" coat of mortar.
Should be allowed to sit for a minimum of ½ an hour – otherwise the stone may sag.
Scratch coat can be roughed up with a corn broom or stiff brush for better adhesion.
Lay out a quantity of stone near work area, blending multiple boxes to ensure proper mix of size shape & color.
Completely cover the back of the stone with ½” mortar, mound up a little in the center to ensure a complete tight seal.
As pressure is applied (use a little wiggle action) and mortar begins to “ooze” out smooth away excess with your finger – this prevents air pockets and prevents moisture / bugs from getting in if grouting isn’t done right away.
Cutting or trimming the stones are done best with a mason blade in a skill saw, a diamond saw, a mason hammer or shingle hammer.
If you are installing corners, apply the corners first.
Start at the bottom with the corners – this is for support of the heavier corner pieces and it’s easier.
Starting at the top with the flats makes clean up easier.
Don’t stack more than 3 head joints on top of each other (vertical).
Don’t stack more than 2 bed joints on top of each other (horizontal).
Snap a line or use a torpedo level occasionally – keeping the bottom of the stone level (this is where the eye focuses).
You can have larger or small grout joints – just make sure the stone is completely sealed around the edges with at least ¼” grout exterior.
Use a paint brush handle and push in, don’t scrape out. The mortar should be thumbprint hard before starting and ¼” depth.
Rinse off film or residue with 1 part vinegar / 4 parts water, using a soft bristle brush, rinse repeatedly with plain water.
Remove mortar from stone face, as necessary during installation.
Grout bags are available at any hardware store. If the bag has a metal tip remove it and cut a 3/8” hole in bag otherwise it will clog
After the stone has been applied to the surface, fill grout bag 2/3 full with mortar. Fold 2 corners in and roll up end. Fill around stone in a continuous motion.
Be sure to cover any noticeable broken or cut edges with mortar
Use a striking tool to push mortar into any cavities or voids, creating a seal around each stone.
To fill all holes or gaps, to prevent the occupation of pests or water that may cause future problems.
A mason or horsehair brush can be used to brush the joints
A smaller paintbrush is an advantage to getting those smaller areas
Brushing the joints helps to create that clean natural stone look. It will remove any tooling marks made in the mortar.
A mild vinegar and water solution will work; do not use just water as it will leave a milky residue on the stone.
It is not necessary to seal the stone. If sealing is preferred the sealer MUST be breathable. Our stone will only fade at the same rate as natural stone (color pigments are made of natural stone)
Allow the stone to cure 30 days before sealing.
Use clear non-film forming – semi permeable – Breathable Sealer
- Stone Mason Products
- Other types of non breathable clear sealer
We recommend a mild solution of granular detergent and water.
Soft bristle brushes and rinse with water
Do not use; acid, salt, or other de-icing materials or a wire brush, these will damage the stone.
Flashing should be 4” under the siding and ½” – ¾” over the top of the sill.
Snap a chalk line and fasten 2 x 2 zinc coated angles. Butter sill and set on top of the angles to support. Caulk the joint along the back of the sill and the building then cover it with flashing. Apply stone underneath sill as normal, covering the exposed leg of the angle. Grout and finish joints.
1/2 inch is what we recommend for both visual and strength qualities.
Surface should be level
Use plywood, tar paper, metal lath and about 1/2" of mortar.
1/2" micore underneath to get the correct K value
Pro-Line Stone Veneer has a 30 year warranty when installed conforming to local building codes and manufacturer instruction.
Share Building Products will replace any defective product at no charge.
Warranty is limited to the original purchaser, with receipt.
- damage to settlement of building
- discoloration due to airborne contaminants
- ,or directly and consistently applied high pressure water.
- contact with chemicals or paint
- staining or oxidation
- use of non breathable sealer
River Rock Flats 3” – 12” Diameter 1” – 4” Thick
River Rock Corners 3” - 6" returns
Split Rock/ Granite 4” – 12” Diameter 1” – 11/2" Thick
Split Corners 4" - 7" returns
Ledgestone 4” – 10” Long 1” Thick
1 ½” – 3” High
Ledgestone Corners 4" - 8" returns
Limestone 4”– 14” Long 1 ½ “- 2” Thick
Limestone Corners 3” – 9” returns
Fieldstone 5” – 15” Diameter 1" - 3" Thick
Fieldstone Corners 3" - 6" returns
Weatheredge 4” – 20” Long 1” – 2 ¾” Thick
1” – 6” High
Weatheredge Corners 3"-9"
100 sq. ft. boxes measure 40 x 48 x 30
10 sq. ft. boxes & 8 ln. ft. boxes measure 23 x 12 x 19
Bailey's Harbor Fieldstone
Barton Limestone
Cedar Creek Weatheredge
Chardonnay Limestone
Cream Limestone
Donegal Ledgestone
Galena Ledgestone
Hillside Granite
Jackson Ledgestone
Niagara Weatheredge
Rockfield Limestone
Shannon Weatheredge
Shoreblend River Rock
Splitface Granite
Teelin Bay Fieldstone
Winona Weatheredge
Wisconsin River Rock
Wisconsin Weatheredge
Norse Building Products, Inc.
Allenton Facility
536 Main Street
Allenton, WI 53002-0126
(262) 629-9330
FAX (262) 629-9982